I have never had luck with whole wheat anything- pasta, flour, tortillas, every time I rock the boat with some healthy white flour substitute I have been sorely disappointed. I envision those dense, brown, crumbly loaves that my friends parents used to make, plucked from old Moosewood Cookbooks, and shudder.
Unfortunately I have a little voice, the same one that tells me to go ahead and try throwing tamari almonds into my breakfast cereal (turns out its delish)or jalapeno jam on my PB&J (also, amazing) that same voice that tempts me to experiment, urges me to give the spelt a try. Doesn't hurt that my friend Katie swears the spelt stuff is a total revelation.
It's a local product after all, the berries are grown on land (some of which I grew up on) in Ellis Hollow and they are ground into flour at an old warehouse, just down the hall from the kitchen I work in. Farmer Ground Flour is a new business that I would like to see flourish, and the ability to make bread from their stuff is enticing, but its all brown and mostly spelty. Something had to give.
I ho hum a bit more, images of failed lumpy hippy bread swirl about my dome, and then I cave. I decide I'll give it a go, using a faithful bread recipe, from Beth Hepensperger, for Seven Grain Honey bread. Instead of the hot grain cereal she calls for, to add texture to the dough, I opted to use local wheat berries, I softened them just as she would have the cereal, before adding them into the mix. I replaced the white bread flour for a mixture of Farmer Ground whole wheat bread flour and the whole wheat spelt, added the yeast, some local butter, honey and milk and two gloriously yellow eggs, donated by friends Ben and Emma.
With help from my fire engine red Kitchen Aid (most prized possession) the ingredients gather to form a dough. One quick hand kneed, some careful shaping, and I leave the ball to rise.
Now, some might find it odd but I always taste raw bread dough. I rather like it, soft yeasty, buttery- and this questionable wheat dough turns out delightfully, no exception. I am feeling confident about the flavor, but my real concern is the ability for this spelt-whole wheat junk to give me the rise I want.
I waited patiently, giving it an extra hour to work the magic, knowing that whole wheat can be a fussy beast. The first rise goes remarkably well, but from experience I know we are not home free just yet. The second rise, to take place on the wooden pizza peel, must also be a success in order for my bread to reach the desired height before entering the oven.
Finally I slide the big(!!) fluffy (!!) loaves onto the preheated baking stone and retreat to the office, beckoned 40 minutes later by that glorious marriage of baked flour, water and yeast, when that smell hits my nose I know its done.
They look good- with a rustic dusting of flour on top a crisp golden brown roof. After cooling I slice a wedge, apply the appropriate pad of butter, and dig in. The first bite is great- flavorful, nutty, the texture spongy and light. Maybe this spelt stuff isn't so bad! Fresh bread, even dense fresh bread, tastes good straight from the oven, so tomorrow, for breakfast toast or sandwiches, we will give it the real test. For now I'm happy to report the dough rose well, the house smells great, and thankfully butter makes everything taste just fine.
